Por el camino

Sights Cherbourg Harbour

Built: 18th century.

Characteristics: Cherbourg Harbour is the second-largest artificial harbour in the world after Ras Laffan in Qatar, covering an area of approximately 1,500 hectares. Construction began in 1783; the central breakwater was completed in 1853, and three forts were added in 1860. Work on the eastern breakwater began in 1890 and was completed in 1895. It is situated four kilometres off the coast; the outer breakwater is 3,640 metres long, with an average width of 100 metres at its base and 12 metres at its crest, and a height of 27 metres. The three breakwaters that make up the system have a combined length of over six kilometres. Access to the main harbour is via two main channels: the eastern channel, 700 metres wide, used by ferries and vessels with shallow draughts; and the western channel, 1,100 metres wide and at least 13 metres deep at low tide. A third, secondary channel, located on the Colignon breakwater, is 50 metres wide.

History: in 1776, at the request of Louis XVI, a commission under the leadership of Suffren – comprising, notably, Dumouriez, the future governor of the garrison, and La Bretonnière – was tasked with selecting a strategic port for the defence of the Channel coast, between Cherbourg, Ambleteuse and Boulogne. La Bretonnière’s report concluded that only the Norman harbour could adequately protect 80 warships. Construction began in 1783.

A little-known fact: on its maiden voyage from Southampton, the RMS Titanic called at the harbour on 10 April 1912 at 6.35 pm and set sail at 8.10 pm.

Note: in Equeurdreville-Hainneville, the 2.5 km ‘Grand Départ’ promenade offers an exceptional view of the harbour and traces 150 years of transatlantic history through 16 instalments covering the history of the sea wall’s construction, immigration and ocean liners. The walk is designed to be enjoyed with a smartphone in hand and is accessible to people with visual impairments and the blind.

Opened: 2002.

History: Inaugurated on 29 April 2002, it was expanded in 2012 with a new ‘Titanic: Return to Cherbourg’ exhibition. It is housed in the former transatlantic railway station, opened in 1933, which is the largest Art Deco monument in France. In April 2019, Cité de la Mer opened a new exhibition entitled ‘Cherbourg 1944… and freedom came from the sea’, paying tribute to the American soldiers who took part in the D-Day landings.

Key features: this maritime museum is dedicated to exploring the oceans from a unique perspective. Its 10.70-metre-deep aquarium is one of the deepest in Europe. The museum also offers tours of the submarine Le Redoutable and a permanent exhibition on the Titanic. It welcomes around 300,000 visitors a year.

Distinguishing feature: the Redoutable was the first nuclear-powered ballistic missile submarine (SNLE) built by the Cherbourg shipyard and launched in the presence of the President of the Republic, Charles de Gaulle, on 29 March 1967. In active service between 1971 and 1985, the Redoutable was decommissioned in 1991 after 58 operational patrols. It arrived at Cité de la Mer on 4 July 2000. It is the only nuclear-powered ballistic missile submarine open to the public.

Commissioned: 1933

History: a project for a deep-water port and ferry terminal was drawn up by engineer Minard. The ferry terminal was built in reinforced concrete from 1928 onwards by architect René Levavasseur, in collaboration with engineers Chalos and Fleury. It was inaugurated in 1933 by President Albert Lebrun. The Art Deco-style interior decoration was created by Marc Simon’s workshops, with mosaic flooring supplied by Gentil and Boudet, ceramicists based in Boulogne-Billancourt. The complex comprises two large buildings: the transatlantic terminal and the railway hall. Partially destroyed by the Germans in 1944, the station was restored between 1948 and 1952 before being decommissioned in the 1970s. It is the largest Art Deco monument in France.

Distinguishing feature: built opposite the station, the Hôtel Atlantique, also in the Art Deco style, is likewise the work of René Levavasseur. Opened in 1926, it closed in 1934 and now houses the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. It was listed as a historic monument in 2001.

Current use: the former station now houses Cité de la Mer.

Listing: listed as a historic monument in 2000.

The town of Cherbourg has 18 18th and 19th-century mansions. Among them are Hôtel de Garantot, Hôtel Lefevre de la Grimonnière, Hôtel Épron de la Horie, Hôtel Baccia, Hôtel Cuman-Solignac, Hôtel Duhommet, Hôtel Lemoigne and Hôtel Leclerc. Most of them were built on the initiative of a liberal bourgeoisie comprising entrepreneurs, merchants and even shipowners who had made their fortunes in the maritime trade.

Release date: 1964

History and characteristics: The Umbrellas of Cherbourg is a musical drama-comedy by Jacques Demy, released in 1964. The first of Jacques Demy’s two entirely sung films, alongside A Room in Town (1982), it combines the deliberate unrealistic stylistic choices of a ‘sung’ film ’ (dialogues sung entirely to music by Michel Legrand, sets in saturated colours matching the characters’ costumes) with a commitment to reflecting economic, social and political realities, by setting the film against the historical backdrop of conscription for the Algerian War – a subject addressed by very few French films. Winner of the Louis-Delluc Prize in 1963 and awarded the Palme d’Or at the 1964 Cannes Film Festival, the film enjoyed immense critical and popular success, both in France and internationally, and was subsequently adapted for the stage on several occasions, including in New York and Paris.

Note: the film gave Catherine Deneuve her first major role, launching her career. She later stated that, until she met Jacques Demy, she was unsure whether she wanted to continue in the film industry. She went on to star in two more of his films: The Young Girls of Rochefort and Donkey Skin

Filming in Cherbourg: the decision to set the film in Cherbourg was made in November 1961. Until then, Jacques Demy had no idea where the action would be set. He travelled there after visiting Le Havre to scout locations. He was disappointed by Le Havre but captivated by the light in Cherbourg. From that very first visit, he spotted the street where he would set the umbrella shop – which in reality was a hardware shop. The filming sought to create a puzzle between the real Cherbourg and the director’s vision.

A 2.9 km walking tour, taking around 75 minutes, allows you to follow in the film’s footsteps.

Construction: from the 11th century onwards.

History: built at the mouth of the Divette at the behest of William the Conqueror, the Romanesque church was largely destroyed. Its remains, however, form the framework of the present-day church. The first major alteration dates from the 15th century, after Normandy was returned to France in 1450. Construction then began on the nave around the 11th-century remains, in a markedly different style: Flamboyant Gothic. From the 16th century onwards, three chapels were built, the last two of which were removed in the 19th century. Ransacked in January 1794 by the revolutionaries, the church reopened in 1803. This marked the start of a major restoration programme that would not be completed until the end of the 19th century and which gave the basilica its present appearance. Between 1822 and 1828, the architect Le Sauvage proposed the addition of a bell tower above the portal. From 1862 to 1865, a major restoration of the interior began. A third phase of works was launched in 1888, further altering the building’s appearance. In 1921, the church was granted the title of minor basilica and, following the bombings of 1944, part of the roof and the stained-glass windows underwent further restoration work.

Listing: designated a Historic Monument in 1944.

Built: 16th century.

Style: Renaissance.

History: Jean II de Ravalet began building this elegant castle of blue schist in 1562 on a former medieval site. Renovated internally after the tragedy of Julien and Marguerite (1603) by Charles de Franquetot, it was transformed in the 19th century by the Tocqueville family. The entire estate was purchased by Cherbourg in 1935. Restored externally after being infested by dry rot, the château opens every summer for an exhibition.

Listing: listed as a Historic Monument in 1996.

Sights Cherbourg Harbour

Built: 18th century.

Characteristics: Cherbourg Harbour is the second-largest artificial harbour in the world after Ras Laffan in Qatar, covering an area of approximately 1,500 hectares. Construction began in 1783; the central breakwater was completed in 1853, and three forts were added in 1860. Work on the eastern breakwater began in 1890 and was completed in 1895. It is situated four kilometres off the coast; the outer breakwater is 3,640 metres long, with an average width of 100 metres at its base and 12 metres at its crest, and a height of 27 metres. The three breakwaters that make up the system have a combined length of over six kilometres. Access to the main harbour is via two main channels: the eastern channel, 700 metres wide, used by ferries and vessels with shallow draughts; and the western channel, 1,100 metres wide and at least 13 metres deep at low tide. A third, secondary channel, located on the Colignon breakwater, is 50 metres wide.

History: in 1776, at the request of Louis XVI, a commission under the leadership of Suffren – comprising, notably, Dumouriez, the future governor of the garrison, and La Bretonnière – was tasked with selecting a strategic port for the defence of the Channel coast, between Cherbourg, Ambleteuse and Boulogne. La Bretonnière’s report concluded that only the Norman harbour could adequately protect 80 warships. Construction began in 1783.

A little-known fact: on its maiden voyage from Southampton, the RMS Titanic called at the harbour on 10 April 1912 at 6.35 pm and set sail at 8.10 pm.

Note: in Equeurdreville-Hainneville, the 2.5 km ‘Grand Départ’ promenade offers an exceptional view of the harbour and traces 150 years of transatlantic history through 16 instalments covering the history of the sea wall’s construction, immigration and ocean liners. The walk is designed to be enjoyed with a smartphone in hand and is accessible to people with visual impairments and the blind.

Opened: 2002.

History: Inaugurated on 29 April 2002, it was expanded in 2012 with a new ‘Titanic: Return to Cherbourg’ exhibition. It is housed in the former transatlantic railway station, opened in 1933, which is the largest Art Deco monument in France. In April 2019, Cité de la Mer opened a new exhibition entitled ‘Cherbourg 1944… and freedom came from the sea’, paying tribute to the American soldiers who took part in the D-Day landings.

Key features: this maritime museum is dedicated to exploring the oceans from a unique perspective. Its 10.70-metre-deep aquarium is one of the deepest in Europe. The museum also offers tours of the submarine Le Redoutable and a permanent exhibition on the Titanic. It welcomes around 300,000 visitors a year.

Distinguishing feature: the Redoutable was the first nuclear-powered ballistic missile submarine (SNLE) built by the Cherbourg shipyard and launched in the presence of the President of the Republic, Charles de Gaulle, on 29 March 1967. In active service between 1971 and 1985, the Redoutable was decommissioned in 1991 after 58 operational patrols. It arrived at Cité de la Mer on 4 July 2000. It is the only nuclear-powered ballistic missile submarine open to the public.

Commissioned: 1933

History: a project for a deep-water port and ferry terminal was drawn up by engineer Minard. The ferry terminal was built in reinforced concrete from 1928 onwards by architect René Levavasseur, in collaboration with engineers Chalos and Fleury. It was inaugurated in 1933 by President Albert Lebrun. The Art Deco-style interior decoration was created by Marc Simon’s workshops, with mosaic flooring supplied by Gentil and Boudet, ceramicists based in Boulogne-Billancourt. The complex comprises two large buildings: the transatlantic terminal and the railway hall. Partially destroyed by the Germans in 1944, the station was restored between 1948 and 1952 before being decommissioned in the 1970s. It is the largest Art Deco monument in France.

Distinguishing feature: built opposite the station, the Hôtel Atlantique, also in the Art Deco style, is likewise the work of René Levavasseur. Opened in 1926, it closed in 1934 and now houses the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. It was listed as a historic monument in 2001.

Current use: the former station now houses Cité de la Mer.

Listing: listed as a historic monument in 2000.

The town of Cherbourg has 18 18th and 19th-century mansions. Among them are Hôtel de Garantot, Hôtel Lefevre de la Grimonnière, Hôtel Épron de la Horie, Hôtel Baccia, Hôtel Cuman-Solignac, Hôtel Duhommet, Hôtel Lemoigne and Hôtel Leclerc. Most of them were built on the initiative of a liberal bourgeoisie comprising entrepreneurs, merchants and even shipowners who had made their fortunes in the maritime trade.

Release date: 1964

History and characteristics: The Umbrellas of Cherbourg is a musical drama-comedy by Jacques Demy, released in 1964. The first of Jacques Demy’s two entirely sung films, alongside A Room in Town (1982), it combines the deliberate unrealistic stylistic choices of a ‘sung’ film ’ (dialogues sung entirely to music by Michel Legrand, sets in saturated colours matching the characters’ costumes) with a commitment to reflecting economic, social and political realities, by setting the film against the historical backdrop of conscription for the Algerian War – a subject addressed by very few French films. Winner of the Louis-Delluc Prize in 1963 and awarded the Palme d’Or at the 1964 Cannes Film Festival, the film enjoyed immense critical and popular success, both in France and internationally, and was subsequently adapted for the stage on several occasions, including in New York and Paris.

Note: the film gave Catherine Deneuve her first major role, launching her career. She later stated that, until she met Jacques Demy, she was unsure whether she wanted to continue in the film industry. She went on to star in two more of his films: The Young Girls of Rochefort and Donkey Skin

Filming in Cherbourg: the decision to set the film in Cherbourg was made in November 1961. Until then, Jacques Demy had no idea where the action would be set. He travelled there after visiting Le Havre to scout locations. He was disappointed by Le Havre but captivated by the light in Cherbourg. From that very first visit, he spotted the street where he would set the umbrella shop – which in reality was a hardware shop. The filming sought to create a puzzle between the real Cherbourg and the director’s vision.

A 2.9 km walking tour, taking around 75 minutes, allows you to follow in the film’s footsteps.

Construction: from the 11th century onwards.

History: built at the mouth of the Divette at the behest of William the Conqueror, the Romanesque church was largely destroyed. Its remains, however, form the framework of the present-day church. The first major alteration dates from the 15th century, after Normandy was returned to France in 1450. Construction then began on the nave around the 11th-century remains, in a markedly different style: Flamboyant Gothic. From the 16th century onwards, three chapels were built, the last two of which were removed in the 19th century. Ransacked in January 1794 by the revolutionaries, the church reopened in 1803. This marked the start of a major restoration programme that would not be completed until the end of the 19th century and which gave the basilica its present appearance. Between 1822 and 1828, the architect Le Sauvage proposed the addition of a bell tower above the portal. From 1862 to 1865, a major restoration of the interior began. A third phase of works was launched in 1888, further altering the building’s appearance. In 1921, the church was granted the title of minor basilica and, following the bombings of 1944, part of the roof and the stained-glass windows underwent further restoration work.

Listing: designated a Historic Monument in 1944.

Built: 16th century.

Style: Renaissance.

History: Jean II de Ravalet began building this elegant castle of blue schist in 1562 on a former medieval site. Renovated internally after the tragedy of Julien and Marguerite (1603) by Charles de Franquetot, it was transformed in the 19th century by the Tocqueville family. The entire estate was purchased by Cherbourg in 1935. Restored externally after being infested by dry rot, the château opens every summer for an exhibition.

Listing: listed as a Historic Monument in 1996.