Vitoria-Gasteiz > Saint-Sébastien

AUTONOMOUS COMMUNITY OF THE BASQUE COUNTRY

Provinces: Alava, Vizcaya and Guipuscoa.
Population: 2.2 million
Capital: Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Area: 7,234 km2
Specialities: Biscayan cod, cod al pil-pil, choricero (pepper), Guernica beans, marmitako (a kind of tuna bouillabaisse). Pisto a la bilbaina (ratatouille with egg and ham). Txakoli (wine). Perretxikos (mushrooms). Goxua (custard cake). Vitoria-style beans, fried vegetables, fried peppers, dried beans known as "pochas". The Rioja region of Alava produces wines protected by the Rioja designation of origin. Pintxos (tapas). Kokotxa (hake jowl in green sauce). Idiazabal cheese, guindillas from Ibarra, anchovies à la donostiarra with garlic, fresh fish, Tolosa beans. Txangurros (spider crabs). Idiazabal (cheese). Cider from Astigarraga.
Sports clubs: Athletic Bilbao, Real Sociedad, Deportivo Alaves (football). Saski-Baskonia (basketball, two-time Euroleague finalist). Bera Bera Rugby.
Competitions: Grand Depart of the Tour de France 2023. Clasica San Sebastian. Tour of the Basque Country. Basque Pelota. Ironman of Vitoria-Gasteiz. Surfing. Behobia - San Sebastian (foot race).
Economy: Shipbuilding, services, high technology (Bizkaia Technology Park), port activities (first port on the north coast of Spain), banking (BBVA headquarters), Iberdrola (electricity and gas). Fishing, agriculture, tourism. Automobile industry (Daimler Benz, Michelin, Daewoo). Agriculture. Beach tourism, congresses. Universities, shops. Cooperatives (Mondragon). Domestic appliances (Fagor). Metallurgy.
Culture: Guggenheim Museum, Fine Arts Museum. Aste Nagusia (August), commemoration of the foundation of the city of Bilbao (15 June). Azkena Rock Festival (June), International Games Festival (June), Vitoria Jazz Festival (July), Dia del Blusa (July), Fiestas de la Blanca (August). San Sebastian European Capital of Culture 2016. San Sebastian Film Festival (September), San Sebastian Jazz Festival (mid-July). Tamborrada (January). Feria, Donostikluba (electronic music). International Puppet Centre (Tolosa).
Sights: Bilbao Guggenheim Museum, Gaztelugatxe islet, Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, Vizcaya Bridge, Bermeo, Guernica, Guernica Tree. 
Website: euskadi.eus

BURGELU

Elburgo/Burgelu is home to many historic buildings, starting with the 13th-century church of Nuestra Senora de la Natividad in Anua, which combines medieval and Romanesque styles. It has remarkable 16th-century grisaille paintings on the vaults. The Larrea Palace, located in Argomaniz, deserves special attention. The façade of this Renaissance treasure is decorated with the Larrea family coat of arms. Today, this beautiful building is a Parador (luxury hotel). From the top of the palace, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the Alava plain. The hermitage of San Juan de Arrarain, a temple with interesting sculptures on its capitals, is also worth mentioning. It is one of the oldest Romanesque hermitages in Alava and forms part of the Pilgrim's Way to Santiago de Compostela starting in Bordeaux. In Elburgo/Burgelu, one of the most significant monuments of Romanesque art in Alava can be seen perched on a hill: the monastery of Estibaliz.

Monastery of Estibaliz
Construction: 11th to 13th century
Style: Romanesque.
Characteristics: at the top of a steep promontory, it is located almost in the centre of the Alava plain, from where it dominates a vast expanse of countryside. Partly destroyed by the action of time and men during the continuous civil wars, which damaged its decorative part, its remains are of great archaeological value. Its simple plan crowned by three apses, its columns decorated with curious historiated capitals, the baptismal font and the stone façade of the altar of Christ show details that date its construction to the Visigothic period. The door of the church is known as the Puerta Speciosa, or precious door, due to the bas-reliefs and sculptures that adorn it.
History: protected by the House of Haro, more precisely by Toda Lopez, it is a reminder of the power of the noblewomen of the time. In 1138, the monastery was ceded to the Cluniac monks of Najera, who kept it until 1431 and sold it to Don Fernan Pérez de Ayala, son of the famous chancellor of King Henry of Castile, Don Pedro Lopez de Ayala. In 1542, Don Atanasio de Ayala, his heir, donated the monastery to the Hospital de Santiago of the city of Vitoria, which gave it to the province of Alava on condition that it be restored.
Listing: property of cultural interest. Artistic and historical monument since 1931.

ARRAZUA-UBARRUNDIA

A large part of the territory of Arrazua-Ubarrundia is located on the banks of the Ullibarri-Ganboa dam, which controls the flow of the Zadorra and provides water and electricity to the cities of Bilbao and Vitoria-Gasteiz. Among its most interesting monuments and buildings are the Romanesque church of San Esteban in Durana, as well as the churches of Arzubiaga, Betolaza and Ullibarri-Ganboa, and the 17th and 18th century Zurbano manor houses, owned by important families in the region. Upstream of the reservoir there are bathing and water sports facilities.

ARAMAIO

Aramaio is located at the crossroads of three historic territories in the Basque Country: Alava, Vizcaya and Guipuzcoa. In addition to the beautiful landscape, there are many buildings worth seeing, such as the Aurtola forge and the Salturri Basque farmhouse, which are listed as architectural heritage sites. In addition, there are several churches, hermitages and other buildings that make up a rich historical and cultural heritage. The proximity of the Ullibarri-Ganboa and Urrunaga reservoirs makes it possible to practise numerous water sports.

ARRASATE

Arrasate in Basque (Mondragon in Spanish) is the central headquarters of the Basque cooperative movement Mondragon Corporacion Cooperativa (Mondragon Group) and one of the main industrial centres in the Basque Country, as well as the headquarters of the University of Mondragon. The Mondragon Group, founded in 1956 by Basque priest José Maria Arizmendiarrieta, has become the largest cooperative in the world. It is the leading Basque industrial group, the seventh largest in Spain, and employs more than 30,000 people. A subsidiary of Mondragon, the Fagor group, which specialises in household appliances and is also based in Arrasate, sponsored a cycling team from 1985 to 1989, whose leaders were Stephen Roche, Jean-René Bernaudeau and Sean Yates.   Its old quarter, surrounded by walls, is home to several remarkable buildings: the church of San Juan Bautista, the Baroque town hall, the convent of San Francisco (now a cultural centre) and the palaces of Okendo and Artazubiaga. Two riders born in Arrasate/Mondragón have participated in the Tour de France: Ivan Velasco (2011 and 2012) and Enrique Alonso Casado (1992).

LAGAZPI

Legazpi has been one of the Basque Country's metalworking centres for centuries. Forges have been found here since the early Middle Ages.  The Mirandaola foundry is the only one of the seven forges that existed in the town in the 16th century to have been preserved: it now serves as a museum of this industry. According to legend, it was in this foundry that the holy cross, the town's emblem, was miraculously made.   Legazpi has been a stage town in the Tour of the Basque Country several times, where it has seen Miguel Indurain (1990) or Alberto Contador (2008) win.

OLABERRIA

It is the birthplace of Aitor "Txiki" Begiristain, an international winger for Real Sociedad and then for Barcelona under Johan Cruyff between 1988 and 1995 (22 caps for Spain). Technical director of Barça from 2003 to 2012, he has since held the same position at Manchester City.

ORDIZIA

Oridizia is the birthplace of Andrés de Urdaneta, a monk and navigator, who discovered the shortest sea route between Mexico and the Philippines, thus promoting the colonisation of the archipelago by the Spanish. Another native of the country, Luciano Montero was three times Spanish road champion in 1929, 1932 and 1934 and world championships silver-medallist in 1935 behind Belgian Jean Aerts. He took part in the 1934 Tour de France (30th). His brother Ricardo, also Spanish champion (in 1925), holds the record for victories (5) in the Ordizia Classic, a one-day race organised in the city since 1922. On the centenary of the race last year, Simon Yates won for the second time (after 2016). Alejandro Valverde, Laurent Jalabert, Marino Lejarreta, Joaquim Rodriguez or Neil Stephens are among the winners of this classic race, which takes place in July.      

TOLOSA 

The city of Tolosa was founded in 1256 by Castilian king Alfonso X, who, in accordance with the custom of the time, named it after another town that already existed and was of great prestige, as was the case with the French city of Toulouse (Tolosa in Castilian). The ancient capital of Gipuzkoa was an important point of passage on the trade route that linked Navarre with the Cantabrian ports and for centuries it enjoyed many privileges. The old quarter bears witness to this glorious past. It is made up of narrow streets, distributed in parallel and separated by squares. The Santa María church, from the 17th century, is a fine example of Basque Gothic, with three naves, vaults and a beautiful Baroque façade. The church and convent of Santa Clara, the Baroque town hall, the palaces of Idiakez, Atodo, Aramburu and the Provincial Council, the Provincial Archives and Euskal Herria Square are just some examples of the city's rich heritage. Contemporary Basque art can also be found in Tolosa, in the form of outdoor sculptures. The city is also home to an international puppet centre, Topic, and is therefore twinned with the French puppet capital, Charleville-Mézières. On the culinary front, Tolosa is known for its beef ribs and dark beans, often accompanied by the hot peppers of Ibarra. Tolosa hosted the Vuelta three times in the 1960s and 1970s, as well as the Tour of the Basque Country and two editions of the World Cyclo-cross Championship. It also organises the José Maria Anza Memorial every year at the end of June, a cycle race reserved for young cyclists and organised at the same time as the city's festivals.

ASTEASU

Among the local celebrities is Julen Lopetegui, a former Spanish international goalkeeper who went on to become the coach of the Spanish national team (2016 to 2018) and then the short-lived coach of Real Madrid. Another native of the village, Bernardo Atxaga, is considered the greatest contemporary writer in the Basque language. The start and finish of the Aiztondo Kaliska, an amateur race, Asteasu also hosted the Tour of the Basque Country in 2001.

URNIETA

Its old quarter lies on a small hill at the top of which is the main square of Urnieta, with some interesting buildings: the parish church of San Miguel Arcangel, after several restorations, preserves its primitive Romanesque limestone entrance and an 18th century sculpture of San Miguel. Not far away is the hermitage of Santa Leocadia, a witness to the uninterrupted flow of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. In the Middle Ages, Urnieta was an important crossing point on the Jacobean route that passed through the interior of Guipuzcoa. The 17th-century Casa Consistorial (Town Hall) is located in the same square. The immediate surroundings are full of prehistoric sites, such as the Marizulo cave, where human remains have been found. Urnieta is the hometown of Mikel Iturria, winner of a stage in the 2019 Vuelta in Urdazubi. Another rider from Urnieta and member of the Euskaltel-Euskaldi team, the promising Mikel Alonso ended his career in 2021 after only three seasons in the pro ranks.

ASTIGARRAGA

Astigarraga is considered the capital of Basque cider. In fact, there are many traditional cider factories (sagardotegi in Basque) on its territory and the cultivation of the apple tree is particularly well regulated in order to preserve the originality of the town's cider. The Sagardoetxea (Cider House) in Astigarraga offers visitors the chance to discover the process of making this natural drink. This new museum includes an apple orchard, an interpretation centre and a tasting area. During the Middle Ages, the village was an important communication centre between Gipuzkoa, Spain and France. It is located on a little-used part Saint James’ Way. Astigarraga will once again become an important axis thanks to the project to build a new station for the high-speed train that will link Madrid to the French border.

IRUN

A border town, facing Hendaye on the other side of the Bidasoa River, Irun has thrived thanks to this border role and its position on the Pilgrim's Way to Santiago. With its 60,000 inhabitants and 2,000 years of history, the city is alive with gastronomic markets and popular cafés. The Pilgrim's Way to Santiago passes through Irun and is a good place to stop, for example at the Oiasso Roman Museum. Irun is the birthplace of Juan Manuel Garate, a stage winner in all three major Tours. Fifth in the Giro in 2005, the Basque climber won at the top of Mont Ventoux in the 2009 Tour de France. Another native of Irun, Jose Maria Errandonea, made Tour history by winning the first prologue at the start of the 1967 edition. Irun has hosted the Vuelta five times, including starts in 2020 and 2022.  

Pheasant Island
Pheasant Island or Conference Island (in Basque: Konpantzia) is a small river island located on the Bidasoa River, near its mouth and Chingoudy Bay, on the French-Spanish border. The island has long been used for bilateral meetings between the French and Spanish authorities. Having the status of a condominium, it is administered alternately by France and Spain with a change of administration every six months. It is the only example in contemporary international relations of alternating sovereignty over the same territory. Access to it is forbidden to the public.  

Oiasso Roman Museum
Opening: 2006.
History: Underneath the present-day city of Irun lies the Roman colony of Oiasso. Located at the mouth of the Bidasoa River, on the border between Hispania and Aquitaine, Oiasso was, in ancient times, the port city of the Vascons. During the Roman Empire, as part of the province known as Tarracona, the town became an important centre of communications and trade in northern Hispania.
Features: inaugurated in 2006, the Oiasso Museum brings together the most remarkable archaeological remains from the Roman period found in the area as a result of excavations carried out in recent decades. The archaeological excavations have identified the port and its warehouses, the baths, the necropolis and the mining operations in the area.

JAIZKIBEL

Mount Jaizkibel (Spanish: Monte Jaizquíbel) is the westernmost mountain of the Pyrenees. It is located just south of the French-Spanish border and overlooks the Cantabrian Sea (Bay of Biscay). Its highest point is a modest 545 metres. This is also the main difficulty of the San Sebastian classic.

A regular venue for the Tour of the Basque Country and the Vuelta, Vitoria-Gasteiz has already hosted the Tour de France, in 1977, for a stage won by Spaniard José Nazabal after a 110 km solo breakaway. The city has hosted the Vuelta on 21 occasions, mostly in the 1960s. But in the last edition, Vitoria-Gasteiz saw the start of a stage won in Laguardia by Primoz Roglic.  The city's most famous cyclist is Joseba Beloki who, although born in Lazcano, some 60 kilometres away, grew up in Vitoria. The Basque rider has been on the podium of the Tour on three occasions, but never recovered his best level after a crash on the road to Gap in 2003.
Born in Vitoria, Francisco Galdos was also one of the greatest stage race specialists of the 1970s: second in the Vuelta in 1979 and in the Giro in 1975, he took part in the Tour de France eleven times, finishing 4th in 1977 and four times in the top ten. Born in Murgia, 20 km from the capital of the Spanish Basque country, Mikel Landa is also a local rider: the leader of the Bahrain-Victorious team has finished five Tours de France, twice just outside the podium. He finished third in the Giro d'Italia twice and won the mountain classification in 2017.
The capital of the Spanish Basque Country is also the home of the Gonzalez de Galdeano brothers, Igor and Alvaro. Igor, who finished 5th in the Tour de France in 2001 and 2002, also wore the Yellow Jersey for a week in the second year. He finished second overall and won a stage in the Vuelta. Alvaro also took part in the Grande Boucle four times between 1999 and 2003 and won a stage in the Giro and the Vuelta. The two brothers then led the Basque team Euskadi. Another local rider, Francisco Javier Mauleon, took part in the Tour de France six times and finished in the top 20 in 1992. He also won a stage in the Vuelta that same year.

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