Unterwegs

NEW AQUITAINE REGION

Departments: Charente, Charente-Maritime, Corrèze, Creuse, Dordogne, Gironde, Landes, Lot-et-Garonne, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Deux-Sèvres, Vienne, Haute-Vienne.

Population: 6.15 million.

Prefecture: Bordeaux

Area: 2,011 km2

Specialities: Bordeaux wines, Cognac, Armagnac, Espelette pepper, Périgord walnuts, Marmande tomatoes, Arcachon Bay oysters, Salers beef, Aquitaine blonde cattle, Bayonne ham, Pauillac lamb, Bordeaux canelés. Goose, duck, Sarladaise potatoes, Basque chicken, garbure soup, lamprey. Black truffles.

Sports clubs: Girondins de Bordeaux (football), Stade Montois, Union Sportive Dacquoise, Aviron Bayonnais, Union Bordeaux Bègles Atlantique, Stade Rochelais, CA Brive Corrèze Limousin, Section Paloise, Biarritz Olympique, SU Agen (rugby), Elan Béarnais Pau-Orthez, CSP Limoges (basketball).

Competitions: Tour de France, surfing in Lacanau (Lacanau Pro) and Biarritz. Tour du Limousin.

Festivals: Bayonne Festival, Dax Festival, Madeleine Festival in Mont-de-Marsan, Francofolies de la Rochelle, Angoulême International Comics Festival, Brive Book Fair, Nuits de nacre in Tulle, Grand Pavois de La Rochelle, Garorock in Marmande, Cognac Crime Film Festival.

Economy: Bordeaux wines, Cognac and Armagnac, aeronautics and space industry, biotechnology, chemistry, scientific research. Image and digital sector. Agri-food. Port of Bordeaux. Tourism. Universities.

Tourist attractions: Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion, La Rochelle, Biarritz, Arcachon Bay, Dune du Pilat, Lascaux caves, Futuroscope in Poitiers, beaches in Lacanau, Biarritz, Biscarosse, Hourtin, Carcans, Soulac-sur-Mer, Gironde estuary, Bordeaux vineyards, Dordogne châteaux, Château de Pau, Pyrenees, Île d'Oléron, Île de Ré.

Websites and social media:www.nouvelle-aquitaine.fr

Boulazac-Isle-Manoire (Pop. 10,400)

Boulazac-Isle-Manoire is a commune formed from the merger of the communes of Atur, Boulazac, Saint-Laurent-sur-Manoire and Sainte-Marie-de-Chignac. It is notably the town of former Foreign Minister Roland Dumas, who created a museum in the manor house of Saint-Laurent-sur-Manoire displaying gifts he received while at the Quai d'Orsay.

Château du Lieu-Dieu

Construction: 14th century.

Style: medieval.

History: the Château du Lieu-Dieu in Boulazac is a small building inspired by all the defensive elements found on larger buildings. Located below the Brive road, the Château du Lieu-Dieu owes its name to the fact that it once housed the relics of the monastery of Saint-Front de Périgueux, in order to protect them from Protestant attacks. It was built in the 14th or 15th century by the Saint-Astier family on the site of an old fortified house.

Current use: the exterior can be admired but it is not open to visitors.

Listed as: historic monument in 1959.

Bassillac et Auberoche (Pop: 4,400)

Formed from the merger of the communes of Bassilac, Blis-et-Born, Le Change, Eyliac, Milhac-d'Auberoche and Saint-Antoine d'Auberoche, it is a lively commune, which organises a renowned comic book fair in October, celebrating its 28th edition in 2017. Like many other communes in Dordogne, it has several charterhouses and châteaux, such as Château de Rognac, Château d'Eyliac, Château de la Besse, Château de la Cave and Château de la Sandre. Most of these beautiful residences are privately owned, but Château de Rognac is used as a holiday cottage in the summer.

Montignac-Lascaux (Pop. 2,800)

Montignac and its treasure trove of cave art, the Lascaux caves, saw the men's Tour de France pass through in 2017 during the tenth stage between Périgueux and Bergerac. It was impressive enough to make the organisers want to welcome the women's race in 2023 for a prestigious finish and a royal podium, with Lorena Wiebes winning the sprint ahead of Marianne Vos and Lotte Kopecky. In June, the village organises the Périgordine, a Gran Fondo that is growing in popularity every year and in which Jeannie Longo took part in 2021. The patron of the event is her former teammate Annie Rebière, who competed in five Tours de France in the 1980s.

The beautiful châteaux of Coulonges, restored by Bâtiments de France and open to visitors in summer, and Montignac, former stronghold of the Counts of Périgord, cannot overshadow the nearby Lascaux caves, which are the town's main tourist attraction.

Lascaux Cave

Period: Upper Palaeolithic.

Characteristics: the Lascaux cave is one of the most important decorated caves of the Upper Palaeolithic period in terms of the number and aesthetic quality of its works. It is sometimes referred to as "the Sistine Chapel of cave art". The paintings and engravings it contains have not been directly dated with any precision: their age is estimated to be between approximately 19,000 and 17,000 years old, based on dating and studies carried out on objects discovered in the cave.

History: on 8 September 1940, Marcel Ravidat discovered the entrance to the cave during a walk, when his dog Robot chased a rabbit into a hole where a tree had been uprooted: Marcel Ravidat noticed that the hole led to a large cave. Marcel Ravidat returned to the site four days later with three friends. The teenagers revealed their discovery to their parents and their teacher, who eventually informed the prehistorian Henri Breuil, who was the first to authenticate and explore the cave.

Current destination: Lascaux 4, an almost complete reproduction of the Lascaux cave, opened in 2016 at the International Centre for Cave Art in Montignac. It follows in the footsteps of the original cave, discovered in 1940 by four teenagers and visited by a million visitors between 1948 and 1963, when it closed, Lascaux 2, the partial replica opened in 1983, and Lascaux 3, a travelling exhibition around the world that began in 2012. The complete replica of the original cave is the result of three years of work. This new space invites visitors to contemplate and feel the authentic emotion of discovering the cave and to reflect on the environmental and cultural context in which it was created.

Listed as: Historic Monument in 1940. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Prehistoric sitesThe prehistoric sites of Regourdou and Balutie, dating back to the Palaeolithic era, have both been listed as Historic Monuments since 1959 and 1960. The presence of Neanderthals and a bear cult has been discovered there. Coulonges Castle

Construction: 14th and 16th centuries.

Style: Medieval and Renaissance

Characteristics: large 16th-century manor house with a 14th-century tower that is not connected to the main building. Walkway on corbels running from the 16th-century tower to the 14th-century tower. Traces of drawbridge slides. Louis XIV balusters on the windows, whose mullions have been removed. Two floors of vaulted cellars. In the inner courtyard, later farm buildings. In the ruined Renaissance section, stone fireplaces overlooking the void.

Listed as: Historic Monument in 1948.

Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère (Pop. 430)

A member of the "Most Beautiful Villages of France" association, Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère is worth a visit for its beautiful Romanesque church of Saint-Léonce, its manor house of La Salle and two beautiful castles, the Château de Clérans and the Château de Chaban, which inspired Jacques Delmas, future Prime Minister of France, to choose his name as a member of the Resistance.

Chaban(s) Castle

Construction: 15th century.

History: the castle stands on the site of a fortress destroyed at the end of the 14th century. In an enclosed courtyard stands a large square tower, whose battlements were replaced in the 16th century by a dormer window. A corbelled turret is attached to it, and it stands in the middle of the main building, which continues into the courtyard at a right angle. A large separate 13th century round tower was probably used as a chapel, representing the remains of the fortified castle. On the side facing the valley, a square tower forms the centre of the building.

Characteristics: remarkably restored over the last fifteen years by the Delautre family, this beautiful 15th-century residence is surrounded by newly laid out gardens and parks. The castle is notable for its stylish furniture and numerous embroideries and tapestries from Europe and China. The site is also distinguished by its magnificent collection of German and French stained-glass windows, one of the largest private collections in France. Finally, a tea-room with a beautiful terrace opens onto a rural landscape dotted with other characterful residences.

Trivia: former Prime minister Jacques Chaban-Delmas took his pseudonym during his years of underground warfare from the castle.

Listed as: historic monument in 1972.

Fortified house of Reignac

Construction: 15th century.

History: rising from the rock into which it is built, this troglodytic "cliff castle" overlooks the Vézère river at Tursac. Built in the 15th century on a site previously occupied during prehistoric times, it was inhabited until the 20th century before opening its doors to the public in April 2006.

Characteristics: much larger than one might suspect from the outside, the Fortified House of Reignac is preserved in exceptional condition. Fully furnished with period furniture, it conceals impressive underground, aerial and living spaces: an exhibition of prehistoric objects in the rock shelter, a kitchen, a large hall of honour, bedrooms, a hall of famous men, a chapel, an armoury, the countess's bedroom, a dungeon and a cellar.

Special feature: at the end of the tour, a renowned optional exhibition on the theme of torture and the death penalty is unveiled in a dedicated space.

Les Eyzies (Pop. 1,130)

Les Eyzies has transformed itself from a small village in the Périgord Noir in the heart of the Vézère valley into the world capital of prehistory. It was here that prehistory was established as a science, illustrated by names such as Peyrony, Lartet, Capitan, Abbés Breuil and Glory. It was here that Cro-Magnon man was discovered, and it is here that we find the world wonders of cave art, including the last polychrome decorated cave open to the public: Font de Gaume. Les Eyzies is home to the National Museum of Prehistory, the definitive reference for the Upper Palaeolithic, whose collections come largely from sites and deposits in the Vézère valley. You can also visit the International Prehistory Centre and the Cro-Magnon shelter in the centre of the village.

National Museum of Prehistory

Founded: 1913

Characteristics: a place of remembrance for prehistoric history, a conservatory of objects, a centre for study and a place for the dissemination of constantly evolving knowledge, the National Museum of Prehistory has been a reference point for prehistorians and visitors alike since its creation in the early 20th century. Located near the main sanctuaries of cave art listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites (Font-de-Gaume, Combarelles, etc.), the museum houses exceptional collections that trace more than 400 millennia of human presence. The extension designed by Parisian architect Jean-Pierre Buffi has significantly increased the museum's capacity since 2004 and now offers visitors the best possible viewing conditions. More than 18,000 items are displayed in a completely new museum layout covering an area of nearly 1,500 m².

Font-de-Gaume CavePeriod of human occupation: Magdalenian.

Characteristics: Font-de-Gaume Cave is the last cave in Aquitaine with polychrome paintings still open to the public. More than 200 painted and engraved cave paintings, organised into compositions and even scenes, occupy the four main parts of the 120-metre-long network.The themes, both animalistic (with bison dominating) and non-figurative (quadrangular signs, tectiforms, etc.), reinforce the interest of these artistic testimonies attributed to the Magdalenian period, which are among humanity's first great masterpieces.

Listed as: Historic Monument in 1902.

Bernifal Cave

Period of human occupation: Magdalenian.

History: the Bernifal cave was occupied during the Magdalenian period, between approximately 15,000 and 10,000 years ago. They left behind painted and engraved symbols and animals. It was rediscovered in 1902 by Denis Peyrony. Louis Capitan and Abbé Breuil subsequently studied it, followed by Brigitte and Gilles Delluc in 1994 and 1995.

Characteristics: Bernifal contains 110 engravings and paintings, in black or red, spread across its entire length, which can generally be attributed to the Magdalenian period. Mammoths are the dominant figures, with around twenty specimens, alongside bovines, equids (including a possible donkey) and cervids. There are also rarer images of humans, negative handprints, and around fifty signs, in particular the classic tectiforms of the Vézère valley region and oval-shaped triangular signs.

Special feature: this is a private cave. The cave and its owner-guide were the subject of a documentary, "Le dernier paysan préhistorien" (The Last Prehistoric Farmer), released in 2011.

Listed as: historic monument in 1904.

Sarlat-La-Caneda (Pop. 9,100)

A city of art and history, Sarlat is renowned for having the highest density of listed historical monuments in the world. The city of Étienne de la Boétie and architect Jean Nouvel owes much of this preserved heritage to André Malraux, who drafted the 1964 law on protected areas to save Sarlat from demolition. The capital of the Périgord Noir, on the edge of the Quercy limestone plateaus, this historic city is a major tourist attraction, renowned for its monumental architecture dating mainly from the medieval period and the early Renaissance (13th to 16th centuries). Its town centre, which is very uniform in appearance, is made up of a network of picturesque narrow streets and alleys, shaded squares lined with mansions with slate roofs, the most famous of which are the house of La Boétie, Hôtel du Barry, Hôtel de Savignac and the Presidial. The nerve centre of the town, Place de la Liberté, lined with terraces, is home to the market, where regional specialities such as foie gras, truffles, figs and walnuts are sold. At the end of the square, Saint-Sacerdos Cathedral and the Bishops' Palace stand as reminders that Sarlat was an episcopal city for several centuries.

Gisson Manor

Construction: 15th and 17th centuries.

History: located in the protected area of the old town, the Gisson manor is one of the most remarkable buildings in the medieval town of Sarlat. Behind these façades lies the private world of illustrious figures: the Gisson family lived in this 15-room manor house and its members included a royal notary, a lawyer and even a consul of the town, a captain of dragoons and a knight of the Royal Order of Saint Louis.

Characteristics: each room has been carefully restored to faithfully recreate the atmosphere and daily life of the Sarlat nobility in the 17th century. Centred around the 15th-century spiral staircase, the private apartments of the former occupants are richly decorated and spread over several floors.

Listed as: historic monument in 1969. La Boétie House

Construction: 1525.

Style: Renaissance.

History: it was in this house that Etienne de La Boétie, man of letters and great friend of Montaigne, was born in 1530. Built in the Renaissance style with mullioned windows typical of the period, the house of La Boétie was constructed by his father, a magistrate of the High Court of Royal Justice, five years earlier, in 1525. This house, belonging to one of the most famous natives of Sarlat-la-Canéda, known for his friendship with Montaigne and his essay Discourse on Voluntary Servitude, was completely restored at the beginning of the 20th century.

Special feature: in 2023, the house is one of eleven sites in Nouvelle-Aquitaine selected to receive funding from the Heritage Lottery and has received €170,000 in aid from Stéphane Bern's Mission Patrimoine. At an estimated cost of €716,000, restoration of the building will begin in September 2024, with work expected to be completed in the summer of 2025.

Listed as: historic monument in 1889. Étienne de la BoétieÉtienne de La Boétie was a French humanist writer, poet and lawyer born on 1 November 1530 in Sarlat and died on 18 August 1563 in Taillan-Médoc, near Bordeaux. He is famous for his Discourse on Voluntary Servitude. This short indictment of tyranny is surprising in its erudition and depth. He questions the legitimacy of any authority over a population and attempts to analyse the reasons for its submission (the relationship between domination and servitude). The numerous examples drawn from antiquity, which, as was customary at the time, illustrate his text, allow him to criticise the political situation of his time under the guise of erudition. From 1558 onwards, he became a close friend of Montaigne, who paid him posthumous tribute in his Essays. Their friendship has been studied by many historians and intellectuals. The two men corresponded regularly by letter until La Boétie's death. Saint-Sacerdos Cathedral

Construction: 12th to 17th century.

Style: Gothic.

History: Religious figures fleeing the tyranny of Duke Waiofar of Aquitaine took refuge in the valley where the town now stands. Pepin the Short had a monastery built for them and endowed it with land. The foundations of the abbey church date from this period. To the east were the cloisters, which no longer exist. The bell tower dates from the 12th century. It has a square base and tapers as it rises. Columns adorn the semi-circular windows. Their capitals are Corinthian in style. In front of the main door, built into the wall of the bell tower, are niches designed to hold statues. The door was rebuilt in the 17th century. The apse is more recent than the bell tower. As the convent church had become too small for a cathedral, another building was constructed from the 14th century onwards, starting with the apse. Work on the nave began in the 15th century, incorporating the cloisters. The new building was not completed until 1682.

Listed as: historic monument in 1840.

Domme (Pop. 930)

About ten kilometres south of Sarlat, Domme is perched on a steep cliff, giving it an exceptional view of the Dordogne valley. This bastide town, founded in 1281, with its golden stones and perfectly preserved fortifications – notably the Porte des Tours gate – successfully combines the architectural, natural and gastronomic heritage of the Périgord Noir. Known as the "Acropolis of the Périgord", the town, like its neighbours La Roque-Gageac and Beynac-et-Cazenac, is listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France.

Vézac (Pop. 600)

Vézac enjoys a unique view of the many surrounding châteaux: Castelnaud, Fayrac, Beynac and Marqueyssac, a sumptuous listed site. This château dates from the 18th century and has a magnificent garden decorated with trimmed box trees, which is classified as a remarkable garden. It is located 130 metres above the river. From here, you can enjoy an exceptional view of the entire valley and its landscapes, as well as the villages of Beynac, La Roque-Gageac and Castelnaud.

Saint-Vincent-de-Cosse (Pop. 390)

This is the birthplace of Lucien Laval, who competed in the Tour de France in 1928, 1930 and 1931, as well as rugby player Jean-Luc Joinel, who was selected 51 times for the French national team as a flanker. He competed in the first World Cup final and won the Grand Slam in the Five Nations Tournament in 1981.

Le Buisson-de-Cadouin (Pop. 1,980)

The commune was created in 1974 from the merger of Cadouin, Le Buisson-Cussac, Paleyrac and Urval. Writer and filmmaker Louis Delluc, who gave his name to one of the most prestigious film awards in France, was born in Cadouin. This town developed from the 12th century onwards around a Cistercian abbey.

Cadouin Abbey

Founded: 1115.

Order: Cistercian.

History: in 1115, Bishop Guillaume gave Robert d'Arbrissel part of the Cadouin forest. The hermit Géraud de Salles founded a hermitage in a valley away from the Dordogne valley in 1115. In 1119, he transformed the hermitage into an abbey and brought in Henri, a monk from Pontigny Abbey, as its first abbot. Between 1120 and 1140, Cadouin Abbey expanded and had six daughter abbeys in the Aquitaine region, which themselves went on to found other abbeys. The abbey church was consecrated in 1154. Prosperous thanks to the presence of a shroud brought back from the Crusades by Raymond of Toulouse, the abbey fell into decline during the Wars of Religion. Sold in 1791, it was bought back by the department in 1830.

Special feature: there are no archives to trace the origins of the Shroud of Cadouin. For centuries, history has been intertwined with legend, and the legacy of this relic of the Passion by the monks of Cadouin is in line with other medieval relics. This relic made Cadouin Abbey an important place of pilgrimage on the way to Santiago de Compostela. From 1214 onwards, the history of the abbey was closely linked to that of its relic: periods of grandeur and decline followed one another until the Revolution and the departure of the last monks.

Listed as: historic monument in 1840, 1898 and 1976. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.