Stage town for the 21st time
Sub-prefecture of the Nord department (59)
Population:
87,000 (Dunkerquois and Dunkerquoises), 196,000 in the 17 communes of the Dunkerque Grand Littoral Urban Community.
Personalities:
Jean Bart (privateer), Roger Salengro (Front Populaire minister), Paul Meurisse (actor), Jean-Paul Rouve (actor).
Specialities:
potjevleesch, waterzooi, Flemish carbonade, welsh, waffles, Jean Bart's fingers, beers.
Sport:
BCM Gravelines-Dunkerque (basketball), USL Dunkerque (football), Dunkerque Handball, Ice Hockey Dunkerque.
Events:
Dunkirk Four Days, Yachting Tour de France, marathon, Boucles dunkerquoises.
By bike:
Vélo + plan, 237 km of cycle paths, Vélomaritime and Véloroute des Flandres.
Economy:
3rd largest port in France, European capital of free transport.
Events:
Dunkirk Carnival, La Bonne Aventure Festival.
Motto:
Dunkirk spirit
Labels:
Ville à vélo du Tour de France - 3 bikes / Ville active et sportive / Terre de Jeux 2024 / Villes et Villages Fleuris 4 flowers.
Websites:
www.ville-dunkerque.fr
www.communauté-urbaine-dunkerque.fr
www.dunkerque-tourisme.fr
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DUNKIRK, A HISTORY
May 1940, Northern France is swept up in a terrible turmoil. The German breakthrough towards the English Channel had trapped the French and British armies in a trap. Salvation could only come from the sea, and all eyes were on Dunkirk. From 26 May to 4 June, Operation Dynamo ensured the reembarkation of the British Expeditionary Force and thousands of French soldiers. It was the largest evacuation operation in military history, an unimaginable success in the midst of a humiliating defeat, a miracle that enabled 338,226 Allies to escape the hell of Dunkirk and reach Great Britain. The "Spirit of Dunkirk", an immense hope of resistance and deliverance, will henceforth float over Dunkirk.
DUNKIRK AND CYCLING
It is hard to forget the coup de force pulled off by Wout van Aert on 5 July 2022, when he emerged from the last 11 kilometres of a stage that started in Dunkirk to win solo in Calais with the Yellow Jersey on his back. The Belgian rider, who had finished second three times during the Grand Départ in Denmark, had then taken his revenge, consolidated his jersey and launched an exceptional Tour, in which he would win three stages and the green jersey.
In cycling geography, Dunkirk is also linked to the famous Four Days, which is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year and usually takes place over six days! From Louis Déprez in the first edition to Samuel Watson, winner in 2025, some of the biggest names in cycling have won here (Jacques Anquetil, Roger De Vlaeminck, Freddy Maertens, Bernard Hinault, Stephen Roche, Charly Mottet and Thomas Voeckler) and the race, despite its difficulties, has always had a huge following among riders.
Dunkirk has also featured on the route of the Tour de France on 20 occasions. A compulsory stage of the race between 1911 and 1927, it saw the triumph of future Tour winners such as François Faber, Firmin Lambot, Ottavio Bottechia and André Leducq. Félix Goethals from the Nord made a speciality of winning here, with three victories in 1920, 1921 and 1923. After a hiatus that lasted until 1958, the town hosted the prologue in 2001, won by Christophe Moreau. The race's last finish in the city, in 2007, was won by Belgian rider Gert Steegmans.
Among the riders linked to the town, we should mention Christian Palka, a professional from 1971 to 1974 who became one of the most popular radio journalists in his region. We also have to remember Raymond Louviot, French champion in 1934 and then a talented sports director, who was killed in a road accident in Dunkirk in 1969, on the eve of the Four Days.
SIGHTS
Dunkirk Carnival
The Dunkirk carnival is one of the major festive events in the north of France. Crowds of carnival-goers make their way through the streets of the town, singing traditional tunes, guided by a brass band led by the drum major. The carnival-goers hold each other by the elbows and form lines that follow each other through the streets, known as "la bande".
Occasionally, some of them stop for a pilgrimage to the chapels (bistros), where they gulp down beer and onion soup. The procession ends on the Grand-Place, where the carnival-goers gather for the rigodon, the final heckle, and then sing a tribute to Jean-Bart.
From the early 19th century, the port of Dunkirk boasted one of the most original carnivals in France. The town only became definitively French in 1662 under Louis XIV. But a large part of the population, attached to its traditions, continued to speak Flemish, so it's not surprising to find snatches of Dunkirk dialect in carnival songs today, such as "donne un zô" (zô or zôt'che = a kiss).
Many carnival societies also borrow their names from Flemish, such as the Kakernesches (the youngest of the children), the Snustreraers (the weasels) and the famous Visscherbende (fishermen's band), who lead the front ranks of the procession.
As they passed in front of the Town Hall, this compact, colourful mass demand their due: 450 kilos of cellophane-wrapped herring, reminiscent of the imminent departure of the fishermen for Iceland. From the central balcony, the mayor holds up a lobster, presents it to the crowd and throws out six of them. Anyone lucky enough to grab a (plastic) lobster can take it back to the town hall, where they will be given a voucher for a real one in a fishmonger's shop in exchange. After four hours of festivities, the carnival-goers gather at the foot of the statue of Jean Bart for the famous cantata and the final rigodon.
The Giants of the North
Like every town in the north of France, Dunkirk has its giants, and carnival is an opportunity for them to get out on the town. Since 2000, Reuze and his family have paraded in the foreground and then blended into the bustling background.
Reuze is one of the oldest giants. Its legend dates back to around 1550. It tells the story of an evil Scandinavian warrior, Allowyn, who wanted to attack Dunkirk. But when he got off his ship, he seriously injured himself with his sword and was treated by St. Eligius, the evangeliser of Dunkirk.
On the eve of his 100th birthday, the town's protector died and the city, in mourning, decided to pay tribute to him by giving his appearance to a wicker mannequin. At the beginning of the 20th century, Alfred Dumont, the mayor of the time, who was attached to tradition, had a Mietje reuzine built and celebrated the wedding with great pomp. Three children were born of this union, Pietje, Boutje and Miesje, well protected by six guards: Allowyn, Dagobert, Gélon, Goliath, Roland and Samson.
Place Jean-Bart
It bears the name of the Dunkirk corsair famous for his exploits under Louis XIV. Dunkirkers gather here at the end of carnival for the final rigodon and the tribute to the corsair with the hymn to Jean Bart.
The square is also the venue for public events such as the Place Jean Bart Spring Festival and Dunkerque la féérique. The finish of the Dukirk Four Days is also held here.
Belfry of Saint Eloi
Built: 1440.
History and characteristics: It was built on the site of an old watchtower. It dominates the town from a height of 58 m and offers a panoramic view. It houses a carillon with 48 bells that can be visited.
Listed as: historical monument since 1840 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005 for the belfries of the North and Belgium.
Excentric Quarter
A pearl of architecture is hiding in Rosendaël, a colourful residential area of Dunkirk with an unusual structure. Designed by François Reynaert, l'Excentric was built during the boom years between the wars. Melancholy blues and pale salmons cover the façades of its "tortuous" houses with Art Deco-style volutes.
Musérial Fort des Dunes (in Leffrinckoucke)
Built: 1878.
History and characteristics: a place of remembrance of the Second World War, this military relic is a privileged witness to the history of the region. The new scenography installed in the troop building offers six immersive video rooms, models and interactive panels that retrace the history of the area from "Turenne to Dynamo".
With its buildings hidden beneath the sand, Fort des Dunes is a remarkable example of the military architecture designed by General Séré de Rivières. It was built in 1878, at the same time as the Zuydcoote battery, to protect Dunkirk and its port from any attack from the east. After the invention of new explosives, it quickly lost its strategic role and was used as a barracks, housing 450 soldiers.
Atlantic Wall
These remains were erected by Germany between 1942 and 1945 to protect itself from Allied attacks. Some of the blockhouses have been reinvested by local artists, offering a fresh look at the past.
The blockhouses of Dunkirk are not linked to the history of the Normandy landings, which is why their conservation has been less extensive. However, the emotions associated with their construction remain intact. They remain an indelible testimony to the history of the Second World War.
Herring pecks
Don't tell a Dunkirker that a herring-peck is the same as a rollmop. Of course, it is marinated herring, even preserved in vinegar, but only the Dunkirkers know how to season it properly: salted for two days then preserved in vinegar with chopped onions, thyme and bay leaves.
And unlike rollmops, this is not a herring fillet, but a herring cut in two or three pieces, not necessarily rolled. Peck in Flemish means both vinegar and brine, hence the little word attached to marinated fish. They are also known in Dunkirk as peckel horings.
A local expression, "candied like a zhareng-peck", implies that you have drunk too much of the delicious beer of the Nord.
