Tourist Guide

Creuse Department (23)

Prefecture: Guéret
Subprefectures : Aubusson
Population : 124,000
Website : www.creuse.fr

Equidistant from Paris, Lyon and Bordeaux, Creuse has a population of 124,000 over 260 communes, making it one of France’s least populated areas. In 150 years, world wars and rural depopulation saw the department lose half its population. The phenomenon stopped from the 1990s. A third of Creuse inhabitants are aged over 60, making it a projection of France in the 2030s. The urban areas are around La Souterraine (Pop: 5,600), Aubusson (5,000), Bourganeuf (3,500) and of course Gueret (14,600), which forms with Ste Feyre the only urban agglomeration in Creuse.

KM 3,5 : LA FORÊT-DU-TEMPLE (Pop : 150)

The war monument in La Foret du Temple looks pretty ordinary at first sight. But it is unique in France as it pays homage to a woman. One can read at the back of it the following inscription: to Emma Bujardet, killed by grief. 1917. The monument was paid for by her husband, Alexandre Bujardet, who insisted that the names of his three sons killed at war be accompanied by that of their mother, who died of despair after losing her three children. In spite of controversy, the municipality and the inhabitants all contributed to finance the building of the monument, which was inaugurated in 1922.

KM 7,5 : NOUZIERS (Pop : 250)

Nouziers church
Built towards the end of the 11th century, it was listed as a Monument historique in 1930. The imposing building, a sober Romanesque church, is interesting in that it was practically not altered throughout the years. The two gates and all windows are topped by round arches while the nave is composed of six rows. The high pillars give an impression of elegance by the addition of columns attracting the eye away from their thick base.

KM 16,5 : TERCILLAT (Pop : 175)

Le Puy Castle
The 18th century Du Puy Castle shelters remains from the Templars including a Templar cross. It was built on the ruins of an old castle that was first a Templar house before going to the Order of Malta. Its farm yard, bread oven, revolutionary clock, sundial, its traditional farm and the manor house built in a park with deer and brooks full of trout make the domain an exceptional site. Shows are held in the castle based on the Perrault Tales and La Fontaine fables.

KM 34 : BOUSSAC (Pop : 1,400)

A fortified town at the confines of the Berry and Bourbonnais provinces, Boussac has a long history essentially linked to that of its castle. The fief of the princes of Deols in the 14th century, it was bought in the 16th century by the family of Jean de Brosse, a war companion of Joan of Arc. From the Hundred Years War to the Revolution, the castle was in constant turmoil but its remains marked by the presence of novelist Georges Sand and later by philosopher Pierre Leroux. It was also home to fabulous tapestries now on exhibition in Paris.
The mediaeval town’s narrow streets are lined by old houses with towers or 17th century balconies in wrought iron. The Romanesque church is placed under the patronage of Ste Anne.

Boussac castle
It was built by Jean de Brosse (1375-1433) after the Hundred Years War in the years 1420 to 1430 on the ruins of an old fortress destroyed by the English. An old companion of Joan of Arc, he was the bearer of the holy oil in the crowning of Charles VII in Reims. In 1426, the King named him marshal of Boussac. On the main gate can still be seen the armouries of the De Brosse family, representing brushes. The castle changed hands throughout the years and after narrowly avoiding destruction during the French Revolution, was bought by the municipality in 1837. It became the headquarters of the sub-prefecture, which was suppressed in 1926. It then became a barracks for gendarmes, who left in 1940. In 1965, Bernadette and Lucien Blondeau bought an empty and decayed castle. They restored it and opened it to the public for exhibitions. George Sand loved the castle a lot and the bedroom in which she stayed can be visited.

KM 40 : LAVAUFRANCHE (Pop : 240)

Lavaufranche is the only village in the region without a church or a graveyard. Its main monument is a house of the Knight Hospitalier, built in 1180.

The Knights Hospitalier commandery
The fortified house was built around 1180. The square keep probably dates from the same period while the rest of the quarters are mainly from the 15th century. In the chapel can be seen the tomb of commander Jehan Grimau (who died in 1480), as well as beautiful 15th century frescos recently uncovered. Among the commanders of Lavaufranche was Guy de Blanchefort, who became grandmaster of the order.

KM 60 : CHAMBON-SUR-VOUEIZE (Pop : 1,000)

At the confluent of the Voueize and Tardes rivers, in a hilly and green region, Chambon sur Voueize is a pleasant little town close to the Voueize gorges. Its priory, founded in the late 9th century by the St Martial abbey in Limoges, held the relics of Ste Valerie. Close by can be seen the ruins of the Leyrat Castle, often described as the castle of Bluebeard.

Ste Valerie abbatial church
The 11th century Romanesque church in fine granite, with its vast and well-balanced proportions, is one of the largest in the Limousin region (87 metres long). In 985, the relics of Ste Valerie were brought to town by monks from Limoges to protect them against the Viking raids. A legend says that a spring appeared at a spot by the Tardes river on which the monks deposited the relics. A fountain is sill visible today on the site.

Viaduct over the Tardes
The large metal railway viaduct, overlooking the valley from 92 metres and spreading over 275 metres, was built in 1890 by Gustave Eiffel, one year after the tower which brought him worldwide fame.

KM 65,5 : EVAUX-LES-BAINS (Pop : 1,600)

In 50 BC, Caesar’s legions stopped in Evaux les Bains and started exploiting thermal baths in the area. Unfortunately a fire and several invasions destroyed the site and the thermal activity was only revived in the 19th century. The Middle Ages are a period of wealth in which the St Pierre St Paul abbatial church is built around the relics of St Marien, the patron hermit of Evaux. The church was partly destroyed in 1942 but remains of the town’s prides.

In 1831, the thermal baths are launched and the viaduct over the Tardes, built by Gustave Eiffel, brings thousands of tourists to the spa. In the Second World War, the Grand Hotel Thermal was commandeered by the Vichy government to detain several disgraced French politicians. In 2001, the only spa town in Limousin renovated its facilities to become an up to date resort, specialised in rheumatology, vascular medicine and gynaecology.

In 2004, the local cycling club decided to revive the famous post-Tour criterium that had been stopped for 28 years. The amateur race, sponsored by Tour speaker Daniel Mangeas and by Bernard Thevenet, takes place the day after the Tour finish.

Saint Pierre and Saint Paul church
The superb and balanced 12th century Romanesque abbatial church went through several modifications in history, notably uring the Hundred Years War. It was built on the site of a 9th century monastery, itself established on the death site of 6th century hermit St Marien. Rebuilt in the Gothic style it is the only church in the region with a five-floor bell tower.

KM 80,5 : ROUGNAT (Pop : 540)

St Laurent church
Built in the 12th and 13th centuries, the church is full of treasures. More than twenty 18th century paintings by Italian master Giandomenico Lombardi (1682-1752) depict several major scenes in the life of Jesus Christ.

A little bit further, a representation of the church patrons can be seen as well as a beautiful altar-piece based on the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The restoration of both in 1961 required 10,000 sheets of gold.

Bodeau castle
A mile from the village, on the banks of the Cher in Courtioux, stands the Bordeaux castle, a private property. It is a well-preserved 15th century fortress with its surrounding walls, its machicolation and drawbridge. The castle has a beautiful wood mantelpiece sculpted around 1650. The castle was used as a set for 1991 film All the world’s mornings.

KM 83,5 : AUZANCES (Pop : 1,450)

An important Gallo-Roman settlement, Auzances was one of five castles in the barony of Combraille and a fortified site seized by the English in 1357 during the Hundre Years War. The castle was demolished in 1830.

The domain of Coux
Remains of a Gallo-Roman villa were found on the spot. Panels on the site explain what such a villa and its baths looked like 2,000 years ago. The domain is a 50 ha park in which several animals can be seen: deer, swans or peacocks. A playground and a fishing pond are also available.

Puy-de-Dôme Department (63)

Prefecture : Clermont-Ferrand
Subprefectures : Ambert, Issoire, Riom, Thiers
Population : 604,000
Websites : www.puy-de-dome.fr
www.planetepuydedome.com

Like most of Auvergne, Puy de Dome saw its population crumble in the last century and has the same population of 600,000 today as in 1850. There are important disparities since Clermont-Ferrand, the main economic centre of the department, acoounts for 43 pc of the population. Clermont-Ferrand is renowned as the headquarters of the Michelin tyre company and as a major food-processing centre. Nature plays a major part in the life of the department, especially in its two natural parks: the Regional park of Auvergne volcanoes and the Livradois Forez park.

KM 121 : HERMENT (Pop : 290)

In 1140, Robert III, Count of Auvergne, starts the construction of an imposing castle. Its strategic position leads to the development of a tiny city whose importance grows with the years. It was seized and occupied from 1367 to 1369 by mercenaries working for the English. The town was surrounded by walls kept by the inhabitants in exchange for a tax exemption. In the Wars of Religion, the town was seized by the Protestants and finally burnt down by the Leaguers. In the 19th century, Herment’s role decreased and many men left to find work in Lyon or Bordeaux.

Notre-Dame d’Herment church
Built between 1145 and the beginning of the 13th century by the chapter of the Clermont cathedral on a land given by Count Robert lII, the collegiate church is unique in Auvergne. Inspired by the Limousin Romanesque style, it also shows Gothic elements. It is the third largest church in the region and is remarkable for its furniture.

KM 142,5 : LAQUEUILLE-GARE (Pop : 150)

The village is known for its cheese, Bleu de Laqueuille. It’s a cow cheese of some 2.5 kilos best tasted between May and September. It is ideally accompanied by a sweet white wine. Its production is now mostly industrial.

KM 149,5 : MURAT-LE-QUAIRE (Pop : 480)

A small mountain village with slated roofs , Murat le Quaire, at 1,010 metres high, overlooks from its rocky ledge La Bourboule and the high valley of Dordogne. Around the typical Auvergne village, the old volcanoes like Monte Dore or Puy Sancy stand high, their flanks covered with forests nesting beautiful lakes. The village conceals treasures of architecture like the town hall, an 18th century manor-house, the Julien Barn or the House of Toinette, a lightshow recounting the life in Auvergne in 19th century. Singer Jean-Louis Murat took his alias from his native village.

Regional Park of the Auvergne volcanoes
The Volcanoes Park, stretching over 120 kms, is the largest regional natural park in France. Its wildlife is especially remarkable but its interest also lies in a preserved rural culture and way of life. The park was created in 1977.
Between 400 and 1,886 metres, the park spreads over nearly 400,000 ha in two departments, Cantal and Puy de Dome.
Four volcanic massifs are part of it: the Dome Mounts (Puy de Dome, 1,465 m), the Dore Mounts (Puy de Sancy, 1,886 metres), the Cezalier (Signal du Luguet, 1,465 metres) and the Cantal Mounts (Plomb du Cantal, 1,855 metres)

KM 155 : MONT-DORE (Pop : 1,750)

The Dordogne rises in Mont-Dore, at the foot of the Puy Sancy, and the town owes its reputation to its fresh air, its thermal waters and the quality of its skiing facilities.

The name Mont Dore comes from the Celtic word Dor meaning torrent.

The St Pardoux church is a tribute to the thermal vocation of Mont Dore. St Pardoux is said to have used the virtues of the local water to cure paralytics and his cult dates from the 6th century. The church is remarkable for its elegant and modern decoration based on the theme of water. The baths are listed for their neo-Byzantine style. They house remains of Roman thermal baths and frescos from the 19th century. The metal framework is the work of Gustave Eiffel. In the whole town, old palaces recall the golden age of the spa. But Mont Dore never neglected its other asset, the mountain. Its cable car was built in 1936 by air pilot Diieudonne Costes, who first flew from Paris to New York non-stop in 1930. The lifts made Mont-Dore the third ski resort in France at the time and the cable car is still one of the busiest in the country in the summer season. At the top, wooden stairs lead to the top of the Puy du Sancy and offer a wonderful view over the volcanoes and the region.

Capucin funicular
Since 1898, a cable car has climbed along the valley at the speed of one meter per second. It is the oldest electric cable car in France and its machinery is listed as a monument. The ten-minute ride gives a perfect view on the Dordogne valley and the waterfalll. The way down can be done on foot by the Chemin des Artistes, paying homage to the numerous painters who took the waters in the golden age of the spa.