Côtes d'Armor department (22)
Prefecture : Saint Brieuc
Subprefectures : Lannion, Guingamp et Dinan
Population : 581,000
Website : www.cotesdarmor.com
Formerly known as Cotes du Nord, the department changed names in1990 for a more Breton and a more accurate one, meaning coast of the land by the sea. Its territory is split between the seaside area and the inner countryside and the Monts d’Arree.
Most of the population of 581,500 regroups around the three main towns of St Brieuc (Pop: 86,000), Lannion and Dinan. It is known as a breeding, cereal-growing and fishing area. The St Brieuc area is especially famous for its scallops. Pork is a major resource and the Plerin market is the main place determining the price of pork in France. Two technological poles are based in the department: Anticipa in Lannio is specialised in spatial tlecomunication while St Brieuc-Ploufragan deals with animal research and biological testing. Tourism is thriving on the seasfront. Te main seaside resort is Perros-Guirec.
CARNOET (Close to the race course) (750 h)
Easter Island in the middle of Brittany….The comparison is tempting when you discover the Valley of Saints in Carnoet. The gigantic project, launched two years ago, aims at building, on an ancient medieval mound, some 1,000 statues of the founding saints of Brittany. Three metres tall, they represent St Gildas, St Herbot, St Hern, Ste Anne, St Patrick, Sandig Du and many others. All the saints, coming mainly from Cornwall and Wales in the 5th and 6th century are an integral part of Breton culture. Twelve saints are currently visible on the site. www.lavalleedessaints.com.
KM 25,5 : CALLAC (Pop : 2,400)
For more than a century, Callac has been known for its breeding of spaniels, one of the most renowned gun dogs in the world. A museum of the Breton spaniel is dedicated to the breed and turned Callac into the spaniel capital. Objects, drawings, paintings, photographs and films tell the story of a breed whose origins lie in the region of Argoat.
The breeding of workhorses was also a major activity in the area until de 1950s. The many owners and breeders in the sector made the area a stronghold of the horse in Brittany. The tradition is maintained by a yearly horse show in Bulat Pestivine , dating back to 1747 and several other horse festivals. A proud sample of the tradition was a horse named Naous, a locally bred stallion who served bravely for 18 years in the National horse farm. His statue stands near the town-hall.
The Pierre Le Bigaut race
The Pierre Le Bigaut association against cystic fibrosis was created in 1992 by parents of children affected by the disease. To raise funds, the association created an amateur cycling race, the Pierre Le Bigaut, the revenues of which provide a third of the money invested in research on the disease in France. Pierre Le Bigaut was a former professional rider, winner of a Tour stage in 1983.
KM 33,5 : LA CHAPELLE NEUVE (Pop : 420)
The Beffour forest
Now greatly appreciated by trekkers, the Beffou forest his one of Cotes d’Armor major forests. In the 17th century, its wood was used to feed the furnaces of metal works in the area before providing wood for sleepers on the Paris to Brest railway. From 1877, the wood was also used to make clogs. Scarred in 1987 by a hurricane, the forest has been replanted since and still produces quality timber. The forest is also an ideal pace for family strolls: several footpaths and an arboretum describing more than 50 species have been created.
Centre Forête-Bocage
Created in 1984 and labelled in 1996, the Centre Forêt-Bocage sits in the very heart of the Argoat region, in La Chapelle Neuve. Between farmland, forest and valleys, it is ideally located to discover the local wildlife with deer, boars, squirrels and woodpeckers.
www.centre-foretbocage.com
KM 37,5 : PLOUGONVER (Pop : 700)
St Envel church
Who would believe that a tiny village like Loc Envel (Pop 80) could hold such a trasure? Built by Benedictine monks from St Jacut de la Mer in the 16th century , the church is typical of the Gothic style. The inside of the monument retained its original setting, most notably a splendid vault and strange animal statues. It also houses a splendid jube, a decorated gallery combining three styles: Gothic, Louis XII and Renaissance.
KM 45,5 : GURUNHUEL (Pop : 400)
The Leguer river crossing the Gurunhuel village flows over 59 kms from Bulat-Pestivien to the Lannion bay. It is famous for its salmon and trout and has been dubbed a haven for fly-fishing. Other species thrive in the Leguer like the otter, who can be easily observed here, a proof that the river water is sound and well preserved. Bats and especially barbastella are also common in the area.
KM 57,5 : GUINGAMP (Pop : 7,600)
Guingamp developed in the 11th century under the Avaugour lords who turned the town into a fortified site. The city grew around the castle and attracted many tradesmen, among them tailors and tanners. Plundered during the wars of Succession and the conflicts between Brittany and France, Guingamp continued to develop several trades like timber, grain, textile and wine. In the 17th century, it became one of the most populated towns in the department. It keeps many remains of its past like the Notre Dame du Bon Secours basilica, the remains of the castle and walls or the central square with its 15th century houses. Other interesting sites include the 15th century La Plomee fountain, or the old convent garden, which holds the last music kiosk in Cotes d’Armor.
The old prison, built between 1834 and 1840 is also an architectural landmark as the first prison designed with a humanist vision.
Guingamp, keeper of Breton culture
Every summer, Guingamp keeps the Breton culture alive thanks to two major events. Held on July 3 this year, Bugale Breizh (children of Brittany) brings together a thousand children in traditional costumes coming from Celtic circles from all over Brittany. They march around the city to the sound of traditional songs and dance.
In August, the Festival de la danse bretonneet de la Saint-Loup attracts more than 2,000 bagpipe players, dancers and artists from all Celtic lands.
En Avant Guingamp and Roudourou stadium
Winners of the French Cup in 2009 and the pride of the city, En Avant Guingamp is a famous soccer club whose Roudourou stadium has a capacity of 18,000 while the town population is only 7,000.
KM 73,5 : LANVOLLON (Pop : 1,650)
The gardens of Villa Kernetra
The garden, abandoned for many years, reopened in 2010. Founded in the early 20th century, it retained two rows of 180 plane trees, some oaks and lawns lined with wide alleys. Devastated by the 1987 storm, it was redesigned by its current owner, inspired by themes of old myths and legends.
KM 80,5 : PLOUHA (Pop : 4,500)
Stretching over 14 kms, the Ploha cliffs are the highest in Brittany. At their highest point, the Pointe de Plouha, they top at 104 metres above sea level. Here rocky capes, coves and beaches follow one another in succession. The charming Paulus beach is one of the most picturesque in the area. The cliffs provide an ideal viewpoint over the St Brieuc bay. The wildlife is also especially rich and it is a nesting area for many birds.
The Gwin Zegal harbour
The small harbour of Gwin Zegal is an oddity – the site is scattered with some fifty wood beams sticking out of the water. It used to be a form of anchoring common in the 5th century and introduced by Irish monks, which has survived to this day. The trunks were stuck in the sand with their roots and blocked by stones. Fishermen still use the stakes to anchor their boats with ropes and chains.
Plouha, stronghold of the French Resistance
Plouha was during WWII a stronghold of the French Resistance. Many locals, familiar with the cliffs, joined the Shelbum network helping Allied airmen shot down by enemy fire to cross the Channel over to Britain. British pilots, housed in several homes in the area, would gather before boarding in the house of Jean Gicquel and a message on the BBC would go: “Hello everybody in Alphonse’s house.” The boarding took place from the Cochat cove beach, known under its code name of Bonaparte.
In all, 135 pilots and 15 agents were taken back to Britain through the network. A monument was raised on the site of Alphonse’s house, which was brought down by the Germans.
PLACE TO SEE
The Kermaria-an-Isquit and its danse macabre
The hinterland chapel shelters a macabre fresco dating from the 15th century. Lost under later paint layers, it was rediscovered in 1856 and shows a danse macabre involving skeletons and local celebrities holding hands. Such frescos are now rare as only seven similar paintings remain in France.
KM 86,5 : TRÉVENEUC (Pop : 740)
PLACE TO SEE
The St Quay Islands
Only accessible at low tide, 1.8 kms off the coast, the St Quay islands are one of the most renowned sites for fishing and angling in the Cotes d’Armor. The small archipelago is scattered with rifts in which lobsters, crabs, shrimps and clams find refuge. Its also a haven for divers.
KM 89 : SAINT-QUAY-PORTRIEUX (Pop : 3,000)
The very name of St Quay-Portrieux tells the history of the small town, evangelised by Welsh hermit St Ke in the 5th century. First set in the area of Kertugal, it moved towards the Portrieux cove from which the first ship left for Newfoundland. In the 19th century, St Quay-Portireux grew around
Its casino and became a seaside resort. The city nowadays attracts thousands of holidaymakers thanks to its five beaches. But the town remains a port and is even the main deep-water harbour in Brittany.
The scallop, treasure of the St Brieuc bay
St Quay Portrieuc is one of the main shellfish ports in Brittany. Dredgers drew more than 2.5 tons of scallop in 2010 from the waters of the bay, which is one the richest site for scallops in France. From November to April, the ballet of dredgers is a fascinating yet short spectacle as each ship is only allowed to fish for 45 minutes a day. Scallop is a preserved species and strict rules must be obeyed. The scallops must be more than 10.2 cm long while the ship must not exceed 13 metres. The nets must be two meters wide at maximum. The quotas are determined each year before the season starts on the basis of observations on the available stock. Scallop is major industry in the Cotes d’Armor department with 250 ship and nearly 1,000 jobs.
The yachting centre is ready for the Games
St Quay’s training centre for competitive skippers has become a major pole for yachting and sailing at national and international level. The centre trained champions like Yann Elies, Claire Leroy or Julie Bossard. It specialises in match racing and will welcome several foreign teams in their preparation for the 2012 London Olympics.
KM 99 : PORDIC (Pop : 5,700)
With its 6 km-long coastline flanked by cliffs and its steep valleys, Pordic has become a favourite for trekkers and hikers but also recently for cyclists. The town is th starting point of a new 25-kms Veloroute leaing to Hillion across the Parfond du Gouet viaduct, built by local engineer Harel de la Noe. The section is part of a more ambitious plan to create a 252-kms cycling path along the Cotes d’Armor coasts by 2013.
Vélodrome Jacques-Prigent
Open in 2001, it hosts national and international competitions, including floodlit events.
KM 110,5 : SAINT-BRIEUC (Pop : 46,000)
Founded in 485, St Brieuc is one of the oldest towns in Brittany. In its long history, it developed a rich architectural heritage: Notre-Dame de la Fontaine chapel, Louis-Guilloux square with its wooden houses, promenade gardens on the ancient fortifications.
The town’s emblematic monument is the St Etienne cathedral, around which the town developed. Built between the 13th and the 18th century, it stands on marshlands, its foundations resting on wood stakes. It hosts relics of the St Brieuc himself, dating from the 6th century. With 260,000 tons of goods every year, the St Brieuc-Le Légué port is the most important in the department. A fishing, commercial and yachting harbour, it provides 200 spots in water and 140 spots on dry land for yachts as well as a shipyard. The port area, renovated in recent years with the creation of the Rohannec’h park, is now a sought-after residential area.
St Brieuc-Ploufragan technopolis and Zoopole
The technopole of St Brieuc Ploufragan concentrates several fields of expertise and skills in several state-of-the-art domains such as food processing, automobile and education. It is notably home to a innovative Zoopole, a centre specialised in animal health and breeding, as well as biotechnologies, food safety, nutrition and environment. More than 50 organisations and companies employ more than 800 people on a working area of 50 ha. Another complex hosts 20,000 m2 of laboratories specialised in the research in biotechnologies.
Another site, the Véhipole, works on the car of the future while the Batipole is dedicated to research on building and architecture.
St Brieuc held 11 Tour de France stages including the Grand Start in 1995. Jacky Durand surprised even himself by winning the prologue while favourite Chris Boardman crashed and was forced out on the first day.
KM 123 : YFFINIAC (Pop : 4,600)
Tour de France cognoscenti all know that Yffinicac is the birthplace of five times Tour champion Bernard Hinault. He hopefully will not mind our reminding that he was born here on November 14, 1954 and that he won his first race 40 years ago in Planguenoual, a town 12 kms further down our route.
KM 127,5 : HILLION (Pop : 4,000)
PLACE TO SEE
The St Brieuc bay natural reserve
Hillion lies on the outskirts of the St Bieuc Bay natural reserve. Here, the sea sometimes withdraws by more than 7 kms, leaving the way to 1,000 ha of natural environment with a peculiar wildlife. The area, mainly consisting of slit, is home to more than 40,000 migratory birds from the North of Europe, from Siberia and Greenland. Thousands of geese spent the winter in the mild Breton climate. La Maison de la Baie is the place to discover these species.
KM 132,5 : MORIEUX (Pop : 850)
The Morieux bay is now the second mussel port in Brittany and the fourth at national level with an annual production of some 4,000 tons of mussels accounting for 10 pc of the overall French production. The Morieux cove is noted for producing both wild and bedded mussels. The mussel farmers either deposit mussel spats on the shell beds or wait for the “wild” mussels to settle on them. They stay in the water for 12 to 18 months before being collected. In all, the Morieux cove has 95.5-kms of shell beds.
KM 140,5 : PLENEUF-VAL ANDRÉ (Pop : 4,000)
The charming seaside resort of Pleneuf-Val André was created at the end of the 19th century. In 1880, the first villas started to appear along the 2.5-kms long beach and the town later spread towards the Murs Blancs area Today, the town welcomes more than 10,000 holiday makers, attracted by the wind-free sandy beach and the pleasant seaside walk. The Verdelet site, a natural birds reserve is another asset.
Yachtsmen are at home in the lovely Darhoet port, offering more than 500 anchoring spots. In the past, fishermen left from Darhoet heading for Newfoundland or Iceland.
KM 152 : ERQUY (Pop : 3,700)
The port of Erquy went through a spectacular growth in recent years, unloading 11,000 tons of fish against 4,500 in 1995. A new bigger port was inaugurated in April.
PLACES TO SEE
The Erquy Cape
The Erquy cape is a preserved site, mixture of moors, hills and sandstone cliffs. Sandstone was exploited until the mid-19th century.
Bienassis castle
Inside a park of 68 ha, the splendid castle, built in Erquy sandstone, was constructed between the 15th and 19th centuries. It is a perfect example of a manorial house with a medieval and a Renaissance part. The house, the chapel, the ditches, the walls and the park are open to visits.
